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storia.3 _ Coco Chanel

"Coco Chanel ha creato la nuova uniforme della donna moderna."

- Vogue, 1926 -

Sull'infanzia di Gabrielle Bonheur si sa davvero molto poco di certo, soprattutto for the different versions that she was used to give its first years of life: born August 19, 1883 from a family of street vendors penniless, orphaned at 12, brought up strictly by the nuns (where he learned to sew) in a convent, the young Gabrielle seemed destined for a small-town life.

come of age he began working in a lingerie store and knitting activities accompanied by the singing at a coffee (and it seems that here began to call her Coco because of the title of a piece in which she used to perform), where met his first lover, Etienne de Balsan, who loves horses and racing, who had transferred to his castle in the country. Coco then passed his days in the stables and probably it was this kind of life "horse" that will inspire some of his later creations.

Gabrielle began to develop a certain anxiety towards life and guests of the castle and began to create hats, Balsan despite not understanding his creative desire and his desire to work, allowed Chanel to move to one of his apartments in Paris. The knowledge network of Etienne and Gabrielle allowed to form their own customers, then opening a shop of hair (which shocked, as were simple straw hats decorated with simple flowers in satin or individual feathers) to Deuville, with funding of his great love Chapel, known thanks to Balsan, who was never able to marry and who died in a road accident in the Twenties, marking indelibly Chanel. After a year of opening

Coco began selling in his store some of the other item of clothing and the outbreak of World War I "Chanel Modes" took off, thanks to its strategic location, in a vacation spot frequented by people wealthy and in view of French society.
In the '20s, Chanel launched the fashion for short hair, was inevitable: having accidentally burned the hair on a stove, cut the rest. After a short tempo le giovani donne alla moda imitarono il suo taglio, dando il via alla cosiddetta pettinatura "alla garconne".

 

Il 1926 fu l'anno di debutto del piccolo nero, petit robe noir, un corto abito nero con polsini e colletto bianco, semplice ma sempre di gran eleganza, che venne subito elogiato da tutti; negli anni '30 Chanel era all'apice del successo, aprì infatti un atelier in Rue de Cambon 31 a Parigi e propose i suoi celeberrimi tailleur , diventati simbolo di sobrietà ed eleganza.

In questo periodo Coco lanciò anche quello che, negli anni successivi, sarebbe diventato praticamente un'icona: il profumo N°5, che secondo the directions of the designer had to embody a concept of femininity timeless, unique and fascinating. The No. 5 was not only for the innovative structure of synthetic fragrance, but for the novelty of the name (the essence of choice was the fact that the fifth was proposed) and the essentiality of the bottle, became famous for its clean the cap and cut like an emerald.

In the thirties, he devoted himself to the creation of Chanel jewelry, but until that time the stylist had proposed, in addition to its leaders, pieces of jewelry, such as jewelry, crystal stones, faux, pearl necklaces false and chains of gold, jewelry that could afford many of the ladies belonging to its customers and become part of the unique style of Coco.

The outbreak of World War II, however, imposed an unexpected setback, Chanel was forced to close the headquarters of the Rue de Cambon, having only opened the store for selling perfumes . Comeback in 1954, to 71 years, addressing the critical imperative of fashion magazines, then in love with Dior, and critics who believed she was now old and over. Soon, however, the consensus began to arrive from America and Chanel came back once again in vogue. Despite the consecration Official Coco has always denied its importance. She was - she said - "Just a simple seamstress".

debuted in the sixties the two-tone sandal, another leader who became a distinctive symbol of the fashion house Chanel
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Gabrielle died January 10, 1971 in a room in the hotel Ritz in Paris, where Aéva inhabited during the last years of his life.

The simplicity of the creations of Chanel fury at a time when he debuted; with her "little black", Coco was able to give the translation more effective in the fashion of that process of emancipation that has been undertaken by women in the early decades of the twentieth century.
In terms of style Chanel made the woman's dress, on the one side male and the other more simple, but practical, he did propose to the women to leave the bust and wear dresses reduced to essentials, made of materials "poor" but comfortable and practical, like the jersey. The most common colors of Chanel were dark blue, gray and beige. The importance given to details and extensive use of costume jewelry, with a revolutionary combination of true and false stones, clusters of crystals and pearls are indicative of the style of Chanel, distinctive and recognized around the world.
the stylistic imprint of Chanel is based on the apparent repetition of the basic models: the variations are made by the design of fabrics and details, confirming their belief that the designer in his famous line that "Fashion passes, style remains ".