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| Elsa Schiaparelli, the inventor of shocking pink. |
Elsa Schiaparelli, Italian fashion designer and seamstress, with Coco Chanel, was considered one of the most influential figures in fashion at the beginning of the twentieth century.
Born in Rome in 1903 by an intellectual and upper class family in the mid-teens he moved to London where he met the Count William de Wendt de Kerlor, whom he married. In the early twenties the couple moved to New York and they had a daughter, who was called Gogo. However, the marriage turned out to bankruptcy, and Schiaparelli was left alone with a daughter, who was stricken with polio, was this, however, the period when Schiaparelli met and began to attend the artists of Dada, also settled in the Great apple. Also during this period, and again because of the health of his daughter, Elsa moved to Paris. It was here that, of course, Elsa Schiaparelli came in close contact with the fashion of the time: in the words of the same Schiaparelli, it seems like love at first sight for fashion took place after a visit with a friend of all 'Poiret's atelier. The first
creazione di Elsa nasce da un'intuizione: viene attirata da un abito fatto a maglia da una rifugiata armena; tra le due donne comincia una collaborazione: la Schiaparelli ha le idee, l'altra le realizza. Da allora la sua immaginazione si scatena: la Schiaparelli presentò nel 1927 la sua prima collezione, ispirata al futurismo e allo stilista francese Paul Poiret; fu però il golf “trompe l’oeil”, con un disegno di un grande nodo a forma di papillon sul davanti, a lanciarla nel mondo della moda.
Born in Rome in 1903 by an intellectual and upper class family in the mid-teens he moved to London where he met the Count William de Wendt de Kerlor, whom he married. In the early twenties the couple moved to New York and they had a daughter, who was called Gogo. However, the marriage turned out to bankruptcy, and Schiaparelli was left alone with a daughter, who was stricken with polio, was this, however, the period when Schiaparelli met and began to attend the artists of Dada, also settled in the Great apple. Also during this period, and again because of the health of his daughter, Elsa moved to Paris. It was here that, of course, Elsa Schiaparelli came in close contact with the fashion of the time: in the words of the same Schiaparelli, it seems like love at first sight for fashion took place after a visit with a friend of all 'Poiret's atelier. The first
creazione di Elsa nasce da un'intuizione: viene attirata da un abito fatto a maglia da una rifugiata armena; tra le due donne comincia una collaborazione: la Schiaparelli ha le idee, l'altra le realizza. Da allora la sua immaginazione si scatena: la Schiaparelli presentò nel 1927 la sua prima collezione, ispirata al futurismo e allo stilista francese Paul Poiret; fu però il golf “trompe l’oeil”, con un disegno di un grande nodo a forma di papillon sul davanti, a lanciarla nel mondo della moda.
All'inizio degli anni Trenta stabili la sua maison in place Vendome, e da lì ogni anno lanciò le sue collections, all themed and all fantastic, but with great stylistic unity. Personally designed the models in sketchbooks meticulous and elegant. Whether the exclusive creations were unique clothes, whether they were aimed at a wider audience, the Schiaparelli created his works with the same, the same concentration. Since then
Elsa Schiaparelli was considered the main antagonist of Chanel in the world of French fashion. Opposite styles: strict and simple as Chanel, Schiaparelli of the rich and imaginative; opposing sources: first the poor, aristocratic second. Both, however, had in mind a free and independent woman, who was not ashamed to wear their clothes. The success of Schiaparelli arrived while the fashion of the century came to a turning point: the abbot of the flat and formless Garçonne that rage in the twenties, he returned to a more feminine fashion, with the natural life to the point, living in the calf during the day and long evening dresses, high heels. Right along with Chanel, Schiaparelli was one of the first to realize that the winning formula in the future of fashion would be the dress ready, you can run in series. Anticipating the time, Elsa had also realized that the parade is a showcase, a performance for the buyers, but that true fashion is made with ready-to-wear.
Over the years the designs of dresses, jackets and suits designed by Schiaparelli, better known as "Schiap" (diminutive affibbiatole in Paris, probably to simplify the pronunciation, which she now adopted), they began to become more complicated, while the need to subvert the rules of fashion became more urgent: inspired by the movement Surrealist, composed of elegant mise dotted with fanciful details: trompe l'oeil tie up soft vest, golf-shaped skeleton, or satin gloves with effect at fake nails, his creations leaked mockery. His links with the surrealists like Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau, made the challenge convention and to dare the unthinkable.
Elsa Schiaparelli was considered the main antagonist of Chanel in the world of French fashion. Opposite styles: strict and simple as Chanel, Schiaparelli of the rich and imaginative; opposing sources: first the poor, aristocratic second. Both, however, had in mind a free and independent woman, who was not ashamed to wear their clothes. The success of Schiaparelli arrived while the fashion of the century came to a turning point: the abbot of the flat and formless Garçonne that rage in the twenties, he returned to a more feminine fashion, with the natural life to the point, living in the calf during the day and long evening dresses, high heels. Right along with Chanel, Schiaparelli was one of the first to realize that the winning formula in the future of fashion would be the dress ready, you can run in series. Anticipating the time, Elsa had also realized that the parade is a showcase, a performance for the buyers, but that true fashion is made with ready-to-wear.
Over the years the designs of dresses, jackets and suits designed by Schiaparelli, better known as "Schiap" (diminutive affibbiatole in Paris, probably to simplify the pronunciation, which she now adopted), they began to become more complicated, while the need to subvert the rules of fashion became more urgent: inspired by the movement Surrealist, composed of elegant mise dotted with fanciful details: trompe l'oeil tie up soft vest, golf-shaped skeleton, or satin gloves with effect at fake nails, his creations leaked mockery. His links with the surrealists like Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau, made the challenge convention and to dare the unthinkable.
With World War II, the success of Elsa Schiaparelli dimmed. It was not until the end of the war and the arrival of 50 years because he would recover the Franco-Italian designer to create form designers like Hubert de Givenchy and Pierre Cardin. In 1954 she gave her farewell to the fashion scene, and the United States where he retired in 1973.
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